The Fashion Week comes to an end in Paris. Return on the outstanding shows of this weekend, between mud and emotions.
Steamy at Leonard’s
For its spring-summer 2023 collection, Léonard set sail for Moustique, a small island paradise in the heart of the Caribbean Sea, the jewel in the crown of the Grenadines. On a vitamin-rich chromatic palette of bright orange, sunny yellow, turquoise blue and faded pastels, creative director Georg Lux combined the label’s signature prints, handmade since 1958. He revived a design from the seventies composed of large tropical flowers from the archives.
Among the masterpieces, a dress in macramé like a couture fishing net, dotted with golden metallic tassels, as well as parachute dresses in printed silk with vaporous volumes, took the light.
Lightness at Elie Saab
No false note from Elie Saab. Between the thick lace and the subtle crochet on white shirts and dresses, the ultra-desirable faded suits and the floral embroideries, the silhouettes give (already) the desire to be in spring.
First Parisian fashion show for Victoria Beckham
For the first time in its history, Victoria Beckham has paraded at Paris Fashion Week. In addition to the palpable emotion of the designer, we will retain a biker jacket with embossed pointed lapels, the tailoring pieces, especially a very masculine black linen blazer, however feminized by an open back maintained by a simple strap but also the slender dresses, draped or gathered, in a linen, muslin or printed organza.
Mud at Balenciaga
Guests were invited to this season’s Balenciaga show through a “lost” wallet that belonged to Natalia Antunes. This enigmatic invitation set the scene for what was about to happen, a show in the mud, led by Kanye West, the designer’s friend.
In the show notes, Demna Gvasalia said he “decided not to explain” his “collections and verbalize “his” designs, but to express a state of mind… The setting of this fashion show is a metaphor for the search for truth and down-to-earthness. Let everyone be anyone and let’s make love, not war”. The viewer is free to make up his own mind about the collection. The man, in his warrior’s outfit -pocketed pants or worn jeans, bulletproof vest, stained hoodie, mesh tank top or bare chest- recalls the hostile world and the soldiers of the Ukrainian conflict. While women, with their femininity and seduction exacerbated by glamorous dresses, are synonymous with peace and life in this harsh and damaged world.
Femininity has really made a comeback on the Parisian catwalks.
Read also > Paris Fashion Week: a look back at the latest shows
Featured photo : © Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
