Since the appointment of French-Italian Camille Miceli as Pucci’s artistic director last September, fans of the Florentine house were eager to discover her vision.
Named “la Grotta Azzura“, after the famous tourist attraction on the island of Capri (where the first store was opened in 1951), it is both disruptive and respectful of the brand’s DNA.
Disruptive in its pace, as its collections will now be distilled into monthly capsules. The first ones, those of Grotta Azzura, were delivered on April 29, before being delivered the following months (May, June, July) for distribution online and in Pucci stores.
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But in terms of style, the former Chanel, Azzedine Alaïa, Marc Jacobs and Dior collaborator also drew from the archives of the House prized by rich, chic vacationers and jet-setters.
Of course, the House also announces “a new way of thinking, living and moving“, the reinvention of “an ultra-contemporary way of dressing“, with a “new nomadic, multi-season and multi-destination wardrobe” ready to be mixed and matched as desired. Yet it remains “strongly rooted in the history” of Pucci.
We can see it with these strong prints, very colorful and geometric, the patchwork of patterns, the iconic motifs, certainly reworked, the bohemian and summer models (caftans, kimonos, gathered pants, shorts, woven straw bags, sandals and colorful …), the fluid and precious materials (silk of course, cotton voile, stretch jersey, terry), ribbons and bangs. Even if the discourse wants to be in the era of time, Camille Miceli claims to “transcend the boundaries of gender” by mixing polar sweaters and silk twin-sets.
While the essential circular approach is present, as with these canvas bags recycling vintage scarves קישור חשוב. A new logo (an intertwined double fish in the shape of a P, inspired by the 1953 archives and the Capri Sport label) has also been introduced, while the emphasis is more on the resort in the collections.
But this false joyful simplicity, in reality very sophisticated, that of the Italian Dolce Vita: no doubt, we are well at Pucci …
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Featured photo : © PUCCI